Joseph Drouhin's La Foret Wines

A long time ago a nice, courteous PR professional pitched a blogger on some wines. These wines, French wines, were from a well known producer that many of us wine lovers hold in high esteem. What was particularly interesting about said wines was the pricing, much lower than this producers other offerings.

Maison Joseph Drouhin makes wines that cost $12 all the way to over $500. Here in Oregon, their Domaine Drouhin property is considered one of the states finest sites for great pinot noir and chardonnay. Winemaker Veronique Drouhin has redesigned the La Forets brand, more on that below.

As I read further into the pitch, I noted that these wines are designed for restaurants to pour by the glass. Perhaps the hottest category in on-premise wine programs, btg lists are fast becoming places not just to dump off cheap wines, but to also find unique, exciting, and delicious wines. American btg culture is changin, albeit slowly, into something far better than it was.

To taste these wines in approximately real world conditions, I took them to my fiancee's shop, Urban Decanter, and ate a meal with a glass of each wine. In between bites and sips, I took notes on what the wines were like. The food pairing was a meat and cheese plate to start, then one of Urban Decanter's famous paninis.

2012 Joseph Drouhin "La Foret" Bourgogne Chardonnay: Grass, butter, green apple, and fun! This just has a whimsical, happy element to it. When tasting, the word of the day is clean, clean, clean! It's so crisp and pure on the palate, with wonderful texture and a finish that's beautifully light and airy. For such an inexpensive chardonnay, this is firing on all cylinders. Recommended! $12.00 SRP.

2011 Joseph Drouhin "La Foret" Bourgogne Pinot Noir: Reminds me of macerated cherries, baking spice, wood, and tart strawberry. In other words, a perfectly normal set of aromas one finds in pinot noir from around the world. Soft and fruity on the palate, with a bit of acidity and tannin thrown in. Clean, easy-drinking, red Burgundy. Recommended! $12.00 SRP.







Wines like this on restaurant btg lists make a lot more sense than what is currently there. This goes doubly true for big chains like Landry's. If you're a wine lover and have ever looked at lists for places like McCormick's, El Gaucho, etc, you know that the list of high quality, unique wines is limited. It's mostly a bunch of boring stuff supplied by one of the mega distributors operating in the United States.

Ok, rant over.

These two wines are good and priced extremely well. If you see them on restaurant lists you can be assured they'll be food-friendly and of high quality. Should you see them on store shelves, I recommend considering each for that casual, Tuesday night bottle.

To find out more, visit the Drouhin La Forets website or the Maison Joseph Drouhin website.

These wines were samples for review purposes.

Beau Carufel

Why So Quiet?

This blog has been quiet lately, with the blame falling squarely at my feet. After months of relative inactivity, punctuated by the occasional post, I decided it is time to talk a little bit about what has been keeping me busy as well as sapping my energy to post blog entries on a more regular basis.

This October, I started making wine for the first time. This is the real thing, and will be released as a commercially sale-able product when ready. I had initially picked roussanne and mourvedre to work with, but ended up with neither this year. The mourvedre was already allocated to people higher on the grower's customer list than I (typical and completely fair in this industry). The roussanne I so lusted after ended up being lost to Mother Nature, as the relentless summer sun caused the vineyard to lose around half its yield. What remained went to prior customers.

I ended up with petite verdot and tempranillo, two grapes I am thrilled to be working with. Total intake for 2012 was .82 tons of petite verdot and 1.1 tons of tempranillo from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA south of Prosser, Washington. The clusters on each were absolutely beautiful, with minimal raisining, no rot, and hardly any bugs!

Fortunately for me, I had a lot of assistance from the Kramers, especially Kim, in walking me through the process of selecting yeasts, must treatments (or lack thereof), barrels, and much more. The Kramers also helped with the nitty-gritty, punching down and pumping over the fermenting bins when I was away at my day job.

The day job. I began to look for another job in mid-July, when I realized I was not a good fit for Cathedral Ridge. To succeed in the wine business you must be passionate about the wines you are selling, and I simply couldn't find that passion. In September, I went to work for a distributor here in Oregon, working the Portland Metro area, selling Pacific Northwest wine and craft beers. The job is great in many ways, offering good compensation and benefits, while challenging me to see how far I truly want to go in sales. Each month I am amazed with what I've learned about selling for a distributor, and I'm taking away many things both good and bad from my experiences.

The last week of September saw me in Bordeaux with a group of wine bloggers including Jameson Fink and Joe Roberts. Balzac Communications and Planet Bordeaux were generous enough to include me on this trip, for whatever reason. I confess that despite the incredible experiences I had, I struggle to write about my time there. Whenever I begin to write about Bordeaux, I get frustrated that my writing skills aren't enough to suck you in, dear reader. You will see more Bordeaux posts from me in the future though.

2012 ended with a flurry of activity, and I proudly proclaim that in the last six to eight weeks of the year, I drank more Champagne than I ever have before. A rough guesstimate puts it at a case and a half. As you can tell, I am quite proud of this factoid.

What does 2013 promise then? The search for new grape sources. I haven't given up on my dream of working with grenache, and I may have a source for some of the finest domestic cabernet franc grapes, period. White wines also call to me, to that end I am actively seeking white Rhone varieties and sauvignon blanc. I hope that my Tempranillo will be released this fall, and that the petite verdot will be released in spring of 2014. Hope is just that, because as we know, the wines themselves will decide when they're ready to be released.

2013 also will bring some changes to this blog, when I move away from reviewing wine and more towards just talking about cool wines I drink. To my PR/Media friends, I'll still accept samples for review, but not nearly as many as before. I'm tired of all the crappy wines and Becky says they take up too much space in our house. She is right.

My personal journey with wine will see me buying more aged Bordeaux and Burgundies as well as continuing to explore Champagne, Alsace, and the Rhone Valley. Of perhaps some interest to my readers, I'm also embarking on a quest to find California Pinot Noir that my palate enjoys. After nearly a decade in California wine sales, I tasted most of the big name, "cult" pinot noirs, and can't stand them. The search is on for cooler climate, higher-acid, restrained examples of what the state can do. Of course, this will limit my search to more recent vintages, but that's ok.

Here now I ask you, did you make any wine resolutions this year? Did you have any wine epiphanies last year?

A toast to 2013, thank you for reading along!

Beau Carufel

Portland Wine Tweetup, March 22nd, With Cave de Lugny

What are you doing on Thursday, March 22nd? If you're a Portland resident, I highly recommend joining us for a night of wine tasting at Taste on 23rd. The wines poured with be from Cave de Lugny, a producer located in Burgundy, France. We'll kick off the festivities at 7:00pm and taste wine, nibble appetizers, and tweet till 9:00 pm. The wine and appetizers will be provided free of charge, all we ask is that you enjoy yourself and tweet about the tasting!

Now, who is the "us"? I was approached by a company called Lush Life Productions to write this post (full disclosure: I'm not being paid to do this) and figured it would be a good way to meet more Portland area wine and food bloggers. As a newbie to the area, I'd love to get more involved in the wine culture here and the chance to drink some Burgundian wines with like-minded bloggers fits the bill perfectly.

What can you do to help? If you're so inclined, some tweets about this blog post would be greatly appreciated, as would any comments or suggestions down below. In other words, getting the info out to the masses! I'd like to get 40 or more people to show up, and your help would be greatly appreciated.

Who is Cave de Lugny? The short story is that Cave de Lugny is a co-op in Burgundy, producing red, white, and sparkling wines. Specifically, the co-op is located in Macon, the AOC of Burgundy which produces the most white wine of the entire region. At present, total production is about six million bottles, spread across red, white, and sparkling wines. Cave de Lugny was in fact Burgundy's first co-operative, founded in 1926. In terms of our discussion, a co-op, is where farmers bring their grapes to the winery where the winemaker takes over and produces the best wine possible. This system is in use in France, Spain, Italy, and many other places around the world, save for the United States.

During the Tweetup, we'll be using the hashtag #CaveDeLugny. All you do is append it to your tweets and then everyone following along will see what you're saying, doing, and most importantly, sipping! I'd also recommend following Pasternak Wine Imports Twitter Account @PasternakWine, they're the U.S. importers of Cave de Lugny. For those new to my blog, my Twitter accounts are @UCBeau and @BeausBarrelRoom, feel free to tweet at me anytime.

So then, that's my pitch to you! Will I be seeing you on the 22nd at Taste on 23rd?

Beau Carufel

Christmas Wine, A Cautionary Tale

This Christmas, I brought wine to the Kramer household. For Thanksgiving and now Christmas, I  revel in the opportunity to serve bottles I wouldn't normally open, bottles that are suitable for the occasion. It's not that the Kramers don't have enough wine, but that I seek a somewhat perverse satisfaction in presenting wines to them and gauging my palate based off their reactions. As much as I preach "trust your palate", often I am just as guilty of second guessing myself as the next person.

This is the lineup, a set of wines that represent some of my favorite regions around the world. The four are:
2008 A Tribute to Grace Grenache from the Santa Barbara Highlands AVA.
2008 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon from the Walla Wall Valley AVA.
2006 Robert Groffier Burgundy from the Passetoutgrains AOC
1999 Chateau Simard Saint-Emilion AOC

Each of these had been acquired over the past year or two via the internet or local wine shops. The prices ranged from around $20 all the way up to $100. With the exception of the grenache, I had not tasted any of these wines before, but have had other examples from either the producer or region.

First though, some sparkling wine from the Willamette Valley. This Elk Cove beauty was picked up by Kim Kramer a few days ago when we went tasting up and down the Willamette. The base wine was made in 1999 and bottled in 2000. In 2010 it was first disgorged, and when it's gone, it's gone. To my knowledge, Elk Cove hasn't made any more vintages of sparkling wine since.

How is it? In a word: wonderful. Although it's not as yeasty or doughy as a lot of Champagnes, it retains a bright crispness and layers of apple, pear, lemon zest, and a hint of apricot. Despite sitting on the lees for a decade, there isn't a lot of creamy weight to the wine, something both Kim and I found very interesting. The bubbles are small and uplifting, just like in a real Champagne, providing excellent mouthfeel. For about $30, this is one of the tastier domestic sparkling wines I've had in 2011. Only 200 cases were made, so it's best to purchase some now before it's all gone.

Moving on to the wines we had with the meal:

2008 A Tribute to Grace Grenache Santa Barbara Highlands: Already on my list of top wines I tasted in 2011, this grenache didn't disappoint. Sourced from vineyards over 2,500 feet high, the wine is the color of fresh-pressed strawberry juice. It's moderately opaque too, indicating it's unfined and unfiltered. The nose is redolent of raspberry sorbet, rose petal, wild strawberry, and black peppercorn. Initially there's a burst of acidity layered with raspberry, that recedes quickly into cracked pepper that sweeps the insides of your palate. Strawberries, wild and a touch green, bring the mid-palate through to a sour-cherry laden finish. All the ripeness is tempered by the acidity, balancing this wine out perfectly. My only regret is that this was my last bottle of the 2008.

2008 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley: I bought some bottles of this in the Fall, intent on aging them for many years, but I also reasoned that a bottle of wine that routinely goes for $100 should be pretty awesome right now. This is one of Washington's cult wineries, and the cabernet is routinely awarded huge scores from the print rags. 2008's Leonetti cab is a blend of 77% cabernet sauvignon, 16% merlot, 4% carmenere, 3% malbec. I decanted this for several hours, reasoning that despite it's youth, a decanter would help bring out some great flavors. I was wrong. Aromatically pleasing with notes of tobacco, cassis, tar, and black fruits built anticipating for an equally complex palate presence. Sadly, this wine was flat out boring to drink. Lots of sloppy black fruit up front, a somewhat hollow mid-palate, as if the wine evaporated, and a finish so oaky that it felt like someone dragged a vanilla-soaked cedar plank across the back of my tongue. If this is something that gets high scores, it's a mystery as to how. I'll probably age the other bottle I have for a few years but this is a lesson: don't always believe the hype.

1999 Chateau Simard Saint-Emilion: I paid $20 for this wine at San Diego Wine Company back during the summer, so I had appropriate expectations. However, there was an undercurrent of excitement that I cannot deny feeling, since most of my Bordeaux are far younger and not yet ready to drink. The chateau dates back to the 17th century, and the current ownership ages their wines for around 10 years before releasing them.  According to my research, this is 70% merlot and 30% cabernet franc.  It opened up nicely in the glass, with an earthy, cherry and bittersweet chocolate nose that also had some spices and a whiff of brettanomyces. Some call that terroir, others a flaw, but it wasn't horribly overwhelming to me. On the palate I picked up the cabernt franc's tannin structure, framing a cherry/leather/herbal/raspberry flavor profile. It had very nice mouthfeel and I suspect it could even age longer, perhaps till 2015 or so. I'm pleased with this purchase.

2006 Robert Groffier Bourgogne Passetoutgrains: I should have figured an '06 could be over the hill. Passetoutgrains from Burgundy contain pinot noir and gamay and are usually meant to be consumed within two years of production. I took a gamble, read on to find out how I got burned. The volatile acidity was powerful, almost smothering an undercurrent of cherry-soaked minerality and some barnyard funk. Beyond the VA issues, a dollop of ripe red cherry sat squarely in the mid palate, bounded by a little bit of (good) acidity. More of the barnyard came through, but compared to the VA problems it wasn't bad at all. A somewhat clean finish was laden with chalky minerality and sour cherry notes. Unimpressive wine and at $26, also overpriced. It went down the drain.

Strictly speaking, I went 1 for 4, batting a whopping .250 on Christmas Day. That's not exactly where I want to be. I still struggle to wrap my head around the Ch. Simard because it was interesting wine, just a little boring. Good Bordeaux has a certain palate presence, one that Bordeaux lovers immediately know. While this Saint-Emilion was good, it could have been more smile-inducing. While I would buy the it again, I wouldn't pay over $25 for it.

The Leonetti does confound me as well, it's just so atypical of what I expect from a high-scoring Washington wine. I know my palate is different than Paul Gregutt's, as well as all those who criticized me on Twitter for not loving the wine, giving it enough aging time, or other "helpful" advice. On the day I tasted it, the 2008 Leonetti cabernet was not very interesting wine. Winemakers can do a lot with heavy extraction techniques and oak barrels, as well as acid addition and tannin manipulation. What they cannot do is create a wine with soul, one that touches your palate.

I could wax poetic about the A Tribute to Grace, but what's the point? You can't find it anywhere and as far as I know, the last magnum was snapped up a couple of days ago. Don't ask me how I know that, of course. Luckily the 2009 is available and you should buy as much as you can. One of the best wines I tasted in 2011.

The Passetoutgrains was shit, plain and simple. It didn't hurt my feelings for Burgundy though, just reminded me that even self-important wine bloggers occasionally get burned.

With that, I wish you all a Happy New Year, see you in 2012! Let's drink some great wine together!

Beau Carufel

Parducci Surprises Me With Their 2009 California Pinot Noir!

One of the fun aspects of writing about wine is that you get samples to taste and share with whomever reads your blog. Like many bloggers, I really enjoy getting these samples of wine, be they $5 or $100. For my purposes, it's a chance to hone my skills as a wine evaluator and share something I'm passionate about with anyone who clicks on the google/yahoo/bing link to my site. The point is that getting wine samples is great, no matter what price they sell for. For example, you're about to read of a Parducci pinot noir that has a suggested retail of $12, an actual retail closer to $9, yet blows other pinot noirs that cost twice as much clean out of the water. It's almost not fair how superb this wine is, considering it comes in at way under $20.

2009 Parducci Pinot Noir California

The tech sheet/winemaker's letter I got with this states that Parducci produced 26,900 cases of pinot noir for this vintage. Also, this pinot truly is pinot, 100% of it to be precise. Of all the juice used to make the 2009 vintage, 69% of the grapes came from Mendocino County. The rest, well who the hell knows? Since the label says "California" that could mean that pinot noir is grown on the majestic Interstate 5 corridor that runs through the middle of this fine state. Nah, that's where the valdigue is grown that goes into all the Two Buck Chuck shit you see people drinking.

Parducci's 2009 pinot is light, a soft ruby color and pale too, I can see right through the glass. There's none of the burnt garnet I see in Burgundies but still, when I look in my glass, I don't doubt that Parducci's winemaker did not add any other varietals. That and it states in the nice letter that there is only pinot noir in the..well..pinot noir.

Aromatically this is textbook pinot noir. Great spices combined with a sour cherry and red currant note, rhubarb and a tiny bit of oak present as well. When I sniffed my glass for the first time, my face lit up. While it's not going to make your nose twitch with unbridled pleasure the way an aged Burgundy will, the fact that Parducci's pinot noir is so true, so varietally pure can't help but entice us to taste it.

Certain wines, really good wines, hit your palate in a way that I struggle to put into words. Better authors than myself can do this with ease and it makes for great reading. What I'm trying to describe is a combination of things, a sense of depth and weight in my mouth coupled with a savory quality that can be described as lip-smackin' good. It's when the voice inside your head tells you the wine is just damn tasty.

So describes the 2009 Parducci. I enjoyed the bright red fruits and vibrant acidity. There was a tiny bit of oak present, doing a great job tempering the acidity and lending some length to the finish. I enjoyed the taste and mouthfeel, and the pairing tonight worked out great too. I picked up a frozen mushroom and black truffle flatbread from Trader Joe's, figuring the earthy mushrooms and creamy cheese would be a great contrast to the bright acidity, lo and behold it worked!

It's clear Parducci's winemaker, Bob Swain, did a wonderful job with this vintage. At nearly 27,000 cases made, there is plenty to go around and I've seen Parducci at Bevmo and local supermarkets if that fails, check out the website I've linked throughout this blog. Easily a B+ (88+ pts) and a STRONG BUY recommendation. Do yourself a favor, taste this and you'll realize what pinot noir used to be like and that sometimes it really doesn't have to cost $20 or more to be wonderful.

This wine was received as a sample for review purposes from Parducci Winery via Boss Dog Marketing.

Beau Carufel

Nestling Up to Another Beaujolais, Courtesy of Louis Jadot

Last Friday night I became acquainted with the 2009 Joseph Drouhin Morgon, a sublime bottle of gamay at the ridiculously-cheap price of $13. It was recommended by my friend David, during a discussion of the merits of the 2009 vintage in Beaujolais. Critics feel that the '09 vintage is superb, producing wines with a balance of ripe intensity and clean acidity. Traditionalists lament the ripeness, wishing for a return to the austerity and "purity" (as they call it) of previous, less heralded vintages. It doesn't hurt that Beaujolais is enjoying a moment of glory amongst the sommeliers, bloggerati/Twitterati, and wine geek crowd.

You may ask, and rightly so, why there's a "villages" on the end of the Beaujolais. That is a differentiator meant to indicate a higher level of quality, mainly in the vineyard. In this instance, Louis Jadot makes a huge amount of wine from Burgundy and Beaujolais, including a "regular" Beaujolais bottling and this Beaujolais-Villages bottling. Here's to hoping I get to taste more wines from this wonderful producer.

The color is beautiful, a deep rich purple like you'd see in some medieval tapestry hanging in a 700 year old French church. It isn't opaque, I can see through to the bottom of my glass yet that just manages to work for this wine. Since I'm new to actually evaluating wines from Beaujolais, I keep finding myself making the comparison to Burgundy, which is erroneous because the varietals are different beasts entirely. What I'm trying to say is that I like the color, it appeals to me on some level beyond just the topical "oh how pretty" aspect.

If you can imagine taking fresh, ripe plums and mashing them in a bowl then tossing in some river rocks and baking spices, that's what this wine smells like. I can also get a whiff of oak, but it's very integrated. Monsieur Lardiere, the winemaker for Louis Jadot, aged it for about ten months in French oak barrels. Nice bit of a floral component, but flowers with dark petals, like violets. I like this Beaujolais, the nose is appealing in a way that makes the wine seem alive, inviting but also something else. This isn't a big, bombastic assault on your nostrils like you'd get in an Australian shiraz or California cabernet. Right now the word I keep thinking of is "alluring" but that seems overplayed. Seductive adds too much of a sexual connotation to the wine, this Louis Jadot isn't seductive. If I could just figure out what to call that quality. Je ne sais pas!

What a contrast from the 2009 Drouhin! Way more minerality here, in a sense more austere. You have to fight with the gravel and oak to find any kind of fruit. When the wine finally gives up the fruit, it's again a plummy, black currant kind of flavor. I don't mean to suggest the flavors are under-ripe, merely that they're harder to discern. The acidity here is a bit less focused than my last Beaujolais, I get the sense of it being somewhat spread out and not as linear but nevertheless it remains very potent and definitely grabbed my attention.

Overall, the 2009 Jadot is good stuff, a lot of fun to drink and explore. I think perhaps it is veering towards the wine-geek side versus the casual drinker side though. Maybe another six months to one year in the bottle will allow some of the more potent minerality elements to recede, allowing that lovely fruit and floral to shine through. Since Easter is approaching, a great pairing would be a rack of lamb that's been baked with lots of herbs. Alternatively, some prefer ham with Easter meals but I'd caution against a honey baked ham, the pairing doesn't seem like it would taste good at all.

For a suggested retail price of $13, and a real-world retail for as little as $9, this is a QPR winner and a wine you should pick up as a way to explore outside the typical "new world style" wines you might drink. I highly recommend it, giving a B and a STRONG BUY recommendation. While that may cause wine geeks and wine experts to scoff a little bit, they would be well served to remember that we all must start liking wine at square one, and our journey takes different paths for each individual. To experience a great sense of terroir balanced with a winemaker's talents at a reasonable price, this is something you should buy. Where can you find the Louis Jadot wines? Everywhere! They're imported by Kobrand and distributed across the country. Try your local Beverages & More or supermarket.

This wine was received as a sample for review purposes from Kobrand. 

Beau Carufel

2006 Mischief & Mayhem Pinot Noir Bourgogne

My friend Monica raves about this wine. She stole a comparison I make between elegant, classy, sexy wines and actress Grace Kelly. Besides using my awesome comparison excessively, she swears up and down this wine is a Grace Kelly wine. Love ya Monica!!

I was thirsty this evening, as often happens when I feel that writing is in order. Leaving my recent bout of writer's block behind along with my nasty bleeding ulcer and gastritis, I decided to open a red wine and just say "to hell with how I feel later, I want a glass!"

First let's talk a wee bit about the Mischief and Mayhem. They're a negotiant based in Burgundy and make a bunch of different wines from many sub-appellations in the region. This is their entry-level Burgundy, made with grapes sourced from the entire region. Monica bought some from a retailer on the East Coast and was kind enough to give me a bottle. For more information on the Mischief and Mayhem 2006 Bourgogne, click this link.

2006 Mischief and Mayhem Bourgogne Pinot Noir

I love the color, it's something I think anyone will notice right away. Palest ruby, clear to the point of looking like a dark rosé. Under the light, the color grabs your eyes and refuses to let go. My imagination conjured up words like: "elegant, delicate, nuanced, classical", and "yay" to describe what I saw.

Sticking your nose in the glass reveals this is no California pinot noir, syrah-added or otherwise! Bright acidity jumps out in the form of a fresh sour cherry aroma. From there, baking spices and a hint of rhubarb even. Whenever I smell a Burgundy, without fail I detect a beautiful earth component. Some may call it minerality, for me that aroma is evocative of damp, freshly turned dark brown soil.

Finally after the hemming and hawing over the color and aromatics, I get to taste the 2006 Mischief and Mayhem Bourgogne. Right away, lots of acidity that is very well integrated with red berry flavors, a ghostly hint of oak and beautiful spice elements. There are some silky smooth tannins present, manifesting all around the sides of my mouth. Like the acidity, they fit well, enhancing the mouthfeel of the wine rather than distracting me from other flavors.  One of the few knocks on the wine was the all-too-quick finish, I was hoping and expecting something longer, more drawn out considering the wine's origins. Not a huge knock, but obviously I noticed this enough to feel like I had to comment on it.

Ok I admit, it's hard not to like this wine. The fine people at Mischief and Mayhem did a great job in a solid vintage, producing a delicious pinot noir. For those who aren't familiar with Burgundy and the style of pinot noir produced there, this is a nice, inexpensive introduction. At about $25 the 2006 Mischief and Mayhem certainly won't break the bank, yet it has quality written all over the bottle. Well not really, more metaphorically I mean. I easily give this wine a B+ and a STRONG BUY recommendation. A note of caution, I'd use Wine-Searcher.com to find any of the Mischief and Mayhem wines, as they don't seem to make it to the West Coast in any quantity.

Beau Carufel

Why Yes, There is Syrah in Your Pinot!

Do winemakers put syrah in their pinot noir? Two answers, either yes or no, but that doesn't show the lively debate within the wine community about this phenomenon. I think I first got a glimpse of pinot with syrah in it about five years ago, when I was tasting through some Sea Smoke wines. They were unlike anything I'd ever had before and reminded me of the lush fruit a merlot can sometimes have. Sure there was spice and some acidity but the wines just seemed to go in a different direction than previous pinots I'd tasted. In that same year I tasted some Radio Coteau wines and was told on no uncertain terms that the winemaker did indeed add syrah.

Fast forward through about five years of palate development and wine education and I present to you a picture of a wine tech sheet sent to me by someone whom I trust implicitly. They acquired this and while we discussed the merits of pinot from California versus Burgundy, offered to share evidence that at least some people are messing with pinot. I've never tasted Three Knights before, it's a wine that Trader Joe's sells and is probably one of their "made up" labels where they buy fruit or juice from big name producers for pennies on the dollar. Still, at least the winemaker for this stuff is adding syrah and God knows what else.

I think a legitimate question is "who cares what grapes are in the wine as long as the law is followed?" In this, I do agree - to an extent. The "but" is when a person drinks something like the Three Knights and thinks that is what pinot noir tastes like, without knowing the other ingredients. Not having tasted the Three Knights, I can't say if it's what I'd consider a true expression of pinot or not, but most likely it isn't, given my experience with pinot at that price point.

Wine labels should list what grapes are in the wine, among other things. I've always felt that way, not because I want to give away winery blending secrets, rather because I want to know what I am drinking. In a perfect world I suppose the laws would specify that the grape grower be named on the wine labels too but I suspect companies like Bronco Wine Co. and maybe even Cameron Hughes would not approve. And really, do we want to read the back of a Charles Shaw label and see that 99% of the grapes come from the Interstate 5 corridor? 

The evidence is clear, there is at least one pinot noir in California that has syrah in it. Well, if you could Radio Coteau, there are two. One cheap, one expensive. My bet is there are many more that have at least a small ( under 5%) amount of syrah in them, others probably jack it up to 15% to get that riper, richer mouthfeel.

Beau Carufel

2007 Robert-Denogent Macon-Fuisse Les Taches

Admittedly I'm a sucker for Burgundies. Best chardonnays on the planet, in my opinion. The implication there is that it's difficult to retain a sense of impartiality whenever I taste wines from that region. The (not so) consummate professional in me struggles with the gleeful, excited side of me that can't wait to taste a wine I know I'll love.

I bought this wine for $25 from WineLibrary.com about a month and a half ago. Usually I avoid buying wine online because the shipping charges are expensive, especially from the East Coast to San Diego. Luckily for me though, free shipping was offered on any purchase, for a limited time. Not wanting to (ok I really did want to) spend a ton of money on a lot of wine, I resolved to buy a couple of bottles of wine and have it shipped cross country, during the "snowpocalypse" to my warm apartment.

After relaxing in my wine fridge for a few weeks, it was time to put up or shut up. I was cooking again last night. There was sweet potato gnocchi with butter and sage, garlic-herbed-chicken, sauteed spinach, and a bowl of sauteed cabbage, green onion, red onion, sun-dried tomato and garlic. This wasn't complex but it was tasty and paired extremely well with the Macon-Fuisse.
You can find the gnocchi at Trader Joe's in the frozen section, it's ridiculously good stuff. The rest of it was all made from scratch, just to see how all the flavors would go together. Next time I will be using less sun-dried tomato in order to concentrate more on the herbs and vegetal flavors of the spinach, onions and cabbage.


The Robert-Denogent had a classic nose of flowers, lemon custard, lime juice and wet rock. Bingo! We're in olfactory heaven with this. I will say, if you enjoy chardonnay from California, do yourself a favor and check out a few from France. You can find some inexpensive examples from Macon, Chablis and Beaune. No need to spend a lot of money on a Chassagne-Montrachet or a Puligny wine.

My tasting notes for the 2007 Robert-Denogent are here: "what an approach! glides into your mouth like a grand dame making an entrance in an evening gown, then that gown comes off and a modern, chic dress is underneath. Replete with acidity and structure while retaining curves in all the right places. Beautifully put together!"

I hope that sounds good to you. A- and a STRONG Buy recommendation. For $25, I feel that the 2007 Robert-Denogent Macon-Fuisse Les Taches delivers above it's price point. Try a bottle or three, especially if you're planning on cooking trout or sea bass. Hell, this stuff could kill it with fish sticks!

Beau Carufel

Making Sense of Turkey Day Wines

Gobble effin' Gobble.

Thanksgiving seems to put a normally sane, rational person into a state of mental (and often physical) paralysis. My belief is the logistics of this oh-so-American holiday have become overwhelming because as we're so wont to do in this society, Thanksgiving MUST be a GIANT CELEBRATION!!!!


I must respectfully call b.s. Perhaps not even respectfully so. Those of you who are reading this and are considered the "wine expert" or "wine guy/girl" in your circle of friends know all too well that around this time of year, the "what wine should I pair with Thanksgiving" question creeps back to life like a zombie in Shaun of the Dead.

Lots of experts and "experts" will tell you all sorts of cool wines to pair with your Thanksgiving meal. Wine Hipsters, those smug denizens of New York City wine bars, trade tastings, and San Francisco restaurants will suggest off-beat, funky wines that you have no chance in hell of ever finding. Stuff from some random obscure producer in the Loire Valley that makes 2 barrels of amazing wine, of which somehow seven 3-packs make it to the States.

Even better, you can listen to the cacophony of voices espousing the "Natural Wine" way of life. Who doesn't want an un-sulfured 2010 Viognier/Pinot Blanc/Marsanne blend that's just come 2200 miles across America's highways while still fermenting? Yummy! Who needs racking and barrel aging when you have potholes and brake-checks?

My point is this: on Thanksgiving, simplify the wines you choose! Let's face it, is there any one, singular flavor you'll be assaulting your palate with on the Big Day? I doubt it, and therefore trying to pair a wine with each dish or opening that crazy/unique/rare bottle will get tiresome and frustrating. My advice is to pick three wines, and get multiple bottles of each one.

Here's my short-list:

1. Sparkling wine: This could be some delicious grower Champagne or some German Sekt, or even a cheap Cava. Of course, I personally prefer the dry flavors of a Brut Champagne but if YOU like sweet, go with sweet. Bubbles are the key, they'll keep your palate fresh while the alcohol will help you and your guests chill out a bit. Keep multiple bottles of whatever you pick on hand and serve it when guests start arriving, a nice mellow tone to start the night will lower your stress levels.

2. White wine: I'll get flack for this, Wine Hipsters will roll their eyes and bloggers will castigate me via Twitter, but I suggest a Fume Blanc/Pouilly-Fume or Riesling. Keep the white wine simple, chilled and accessible to all your guests. For the vast majority of people, the stress of wondering whether your special bottle of Norwegian Roussanne/Gewurztraminer will work with potatoes au gratin just isn't worth it. With the Fume Blanc or Pouilly-Fume, that nice kick of acidity that's been softened by a bit of oak will work with a lot of the veggie dishes and can stand up to some of the creamier sides. An off-dry Riesling will add some fun with it's sweet but light blend of flavors. If you cook a turkey that has herbs added, the pairing will work with that too.

3. Red wine: I can sense the sharpening of attack-talons now, the jeers are going to rain down..Or worse, this entry will get relegated to the "that guy's full of shit" blog heap. Pinot Noir or Zinfandel. Either of these will work beautifully provided they're well chosen. Since the average Thanksgiving guest cannot taste the difference between a $740 Grand Cru Burgundy and a $90 Willamette Valley Pinot, why even worry? Grab two or three bottles of something that costs about $40 a bottle and you'll be getting some delicious juice. For Zinfandel, try to avoid a jammy fruit-bomb from Paso Robles, instead check out some stuff from Mendocino or Sonoma Counties. $30-40 gets you a slam dunk Zin that stands up to the turkey, stuffing and sweet potatoes yet doesn't leave you feeling like you just inhaled mixed-berry jam from Smuckers.

The Thanksgiving that most of us...no the vast majority of us will celebrate will have a mix of wine fans and those who drink it because there's alcohol in it and everyone else is doing it. We who love to explore wine need to realize this and accept it. There are 364 other days in the year to explore new and interesting wines, so calm down with the Thanksgiving madness, take a deep breath, and just enjoy the way wine brings people together.


No turkeys or zombies were harmed in the making of this blog.

Beau Carufel