2006 Tzora Vineyards Neve Ilan Single Vineyard Israel

A few weeks ago I tasted my first Israeli white wine, a superb un-oaked chardonnay from Pelter. You can find that review right here, and buy the wine right here. This time I opened a red from the Judean Hills, which is on the road between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.

Israel is undergoing something of a wine renaissance, or a re-emergence if you prefer. Since 1984, the world has begun to take notice of quality wines coming from the Golan Heights area as well as the Judean Hills region. Luckily for us Americans, procuring wines from there is getting ever-easier thanks to some great importers and websites. I was able to get some examples of both red and white wine, beginning my exploration of the styles which Israel's unique terroir lends itself to. During my research on this wine, I found some good background information about the Judean Hills on a blog dedicated to Israeli wines. Click here to go check it out.

Featured in this latest blog is the 2006 Tzora Neve Ilan Single Vineyard from the Judean Hills. A blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon and 30% merlot, this echoes some of the best Bordeaux that I've tasted. Neve Ilan vineyard lies on the western slopes of the Jerusalem hills (same as the Judean hills), at about 2000 feet above sea level. Hot days, cool nights and persistent sunlight allow the vines to ripen at a steady, reliable pace. After harvest and vinification, the wine rests for 18 months in French oak barrels.

As I pour this beautifully light cloudy-garnet wine, I noticed that it softens towards the edges. For me, a clear indicator of the nearly five year age. Color is very important to a wine, something I've been reminded of recently and a resolution even, for me to pay more attention to in my blog. The 2006 Neve Ilan is beautiful, somewhere between a young, racy wine and one that's had time to mature in bottle.

My first sniff caused me to stop and ponder the scents emanating from the glass. This wine has a bouquet different from what most of us drink every day, even if we have similar blends of cabernet and merlot. I hit on  primary notes of damp, dark earth, herbs and cedar spice. Building the rest of the bouquet were sour cherries and black currants. The proportions felt right and the balance was remarkable, an indicator of high quality. Despite the two varietals being common, the nose of the 2006 Tzora clearly showed the effects of terroir.

Upon tasting the Neve Ilan, my palate descended into a world of earthy herbs, spices, a melange of crushed blackberries, currants and black cherries all swished around with a fine grained tannin sensation. If that descriptor makes you want to try the wine, good. I really think this is a well put-together wine and the finish, smooth and with a hint of oak, left me leaning back and smacking my lips with satisfaction.

For about $27, Tzora's offering easily compares to similarly priced Napa Valley and Chilean offerings. I recommend buying from Israeli Wine Direct, click this link to go directly to the Tzora page. A few shekels (or dollars) gets you a QPR-beater and a wine that will go great with lamb and beef dishes. While this might not be kosher, a cured meat and cheese plate would be superb with the Neve Ilan as well. Tzora did a wonderful job with this wine, I'm happy to grade it a B+ and a BUY recommendation. I don't think you'll be disappointed.

This wine was received with the intent to review.

Beau Carufel

My First Israeli Wine, Chardonnay from Pelter Winery

When is the last time you had a wine from somewhere new to you? How many wine drinkers can honestly say that it was recently?

I'm like most and aside from the domestic wines I consume, I stick to a few well-established areas. France/Spain/Italy, Chile/Argentina, and Australia/New Zealand are the bulk of both my collection and my daily drinking selection. Rather than being opposed to tasting wines from outside these areas, I just tend to stay within a comfort zone I've established.

(img from http://www.pelterwinery.com/manager/dbimages/wine_pelter_main%281%29.jpg)

Right. So I got some wines from Israel recently. I've never had Israeli wine before, and for many, I suspect that is true as well. Collectively, if the rest of the Israeli wines are as good as the 2009 Pelter Unwooded Chardonnay, we're missing out. Consumers might be intimidated by the obscurity of the Israeli wine industry or the fear that the wines are all Kosher, with the associated horror stories behind that designation. That isn't a knock on Kosher wines at all, just an acknowledgement of consumer lack of information. The 2009 Pelter I tasted tonight doesn't have any kind of Kosher designation on the bottle, anywhere. This leads me to believe the winery is not Kosher, whether that's good or bad though, I leave up to you.

After getting my hands on some fresh basil, pesto seemed like the logical thing to make. Of course, that calls for some pasta and garlic bread too. While not necessarily a pairing I'd think of right away, the thought of unwooded chardonnay proved too much of a temptation. If the Pelter Chardonnay had been aged in oak barrels instead of steel tanks, the flavor composition could have been very different and this pairing would not have worked out at all.

That being said, I should now talk about the wine itself. The juice is pale, seriously pale. We're talking as pale as a Sancerre! Not that golden-straw color a glass of Kistler or Rombauer might have, far from it. Hell, this is almost as pale as a Willamette Valley Pinot Gris.

Since the bottle says the varietal is chardonnay, it should come as no surprise that this wine smells like chardonnay. Beautifully aromatic, I'd liken the nose to fresh summer flowers, lemon tart, lime juice and a whiff of fresh sea-breeze. When you buy this wine, I recommend an experiment: smell the wine when it's chilled and make a note of how lively and zingy it is, then later on, take another whiff as the wine has warmed a bit. I think you will find a fascinating difference.

Bright is a word I like to use to describe a wine's personality, so I'll use it on the 2009 Pelter. To me, a "bright" wine has acidity that washes across the palate, making the wine accessible but also complex. In the Pelter, the acidity shines, at once refreshing while also a structural element. Within the acidity, a smooth, round core of lemon creme. Limes, tropical fruit and the subtlest mineral tones create a complexity I admit to being unprepared for. In other words, a wine that is lip-smackin' good!

How should I sum up a wine I am so impressed with? Since I cannot literally force you to buy this wine, there's no way to ensure you give it a chance. Look beyond the region, throw aside whatever pre-conceived notions you might have. Drink the 2009 Pelter Chardonnay and then go back and note that it's from Merom Golan, Israel. 706 cases were produced. In the United States (especially California), buy it at Israeli Wine Direct. They've got the best price I could find. As for me, I rate this wine an A- and a STRONG buy recommendation.

Beau Carufel