Selected Chianti Classico Wines

Chianti wines suffer from an image problem here in the United States. The consumer perception of low quality, fueled by an ocean of cheap Chianti in reed-wrapped bottles has hurt sales. Within Chianti the need was recognized to educate consumers in order to change their perception. Millions of bottles of the cheap stuff still make it here, but there's another side to the region, a more serious side. *cue serious music*

Without getting too deep into Italian wine law, it's important to note that there exist several regions within Chianti, and the one we are discussing here, Chianti Classico, is one of the most significant. Within Chianti Classico lie the historical boundaries of the region, as originally laid out in the mid 1800's.

Right now, there are several grape varieties allowed in the production of Chianti (and Classico) wines. Sangiovese is the dominant, as you probably already knew. In fact, it only recently became legal to produce a Chianti with 100% Sangiovese. Since 1996, the blend for Chianti and Chianti Classico has been 75-100% Sangiovese, up to 10% Canaiolo, and up to 20% of any other approved red grape variety such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, or Syrah. White grapes are currently banned for use in Chianti wines.

Touching on the aging and alcohol regulations for a moment, Chianti Classico must have a minimum alcohol level of at least 12% with a minimum of 7 months aging in oak, while Chianti Classico's labeled Riserva must be aged at least 27 months at the winery, with a minimum alcohol level of at least 12.5%.

Ironically the quality control issue reared its head with regard to the samples of Chianti Classico I received. Out of maybe 9 bottles, two were badly corked, two had serious Brettanomyces contamination, and one smelled of nail polish remover. Those of course did not get reviewed, but it's clear still more work is needed in the cellars.

2008 Volpaia "Coltassala" Chianti Classico: Warm oak tones dominate the nose at first, overshadowing more subtle aromas of red fruit, herbs, and red earth. On the palate, medium acid and soft tannin work nicely with tart red cherry and plum skin, dried herb, and a finish of smokey game meat. The acidity really shows through on the finish too, where it creates a nice drying effect, readying the palate for another bite of food. *Highly Recommended* 13.5% abv. $50.

2008 Riserva di Fizzano Chianti Classico Riserva: The nose has a lot less oak than the preceding wine, but replaces that with a dominant confection/cherry and dry leather thing. Some VA is present too, but it's not distracting and adds a rustic air to the palette of aromas. Flavors of red soil, tart cranberry, dried herbs and spices, and oak barrel all meld together to create a pleasingly complex, dry Chianti. This has a lot of structure and is just a baby, but has also some great potential. 14.5% abv. $30. *Recommended*




2010 Felsina "Berardenga" Chianti Classico: Oak and soft black cherry notes jumped out at me right away. I also picked up red Jolly Rancher and pepper notes. This, just by the smell, seemed like a very young wine. It's dry and soft on the palate, with plenty of tannin that partially obscures tart red fruit, peppery spice, cinnamon, and soil flavors. I suspect this is a wine to either decant now or just wait a few years on. Great acidity should hold everything together for several more years. 13.5% abv. $18.

2008 La Porta di Vertine Chianti Classico Riserva: Shows some brett in the form of smoked meat and band-aid, also some dark fruit - think black cherry and plum. Out of the four I opened, this had the most black fruit compared to the redder orientation of the previous wines. It's also got some considerable oak influence from the mocha notes I picked out too. Nice drying tannin but a curious lack of acidity left me somewhat confused. There isn't much on the palate beyond bitter grape stem and more mocha notes. Somewhat disappointing. 14.5% abv. $50.





The above wines are not cheap, save for the Felsina, which is very reasonably priced for the quality. The more I thought about these wines, the more I concluded that they are not QPR winners by any means, but that a couple of them were quite good and the 2008 Volpaia was excellent. Still, as a wine lover and someone who spends a significant portion of his income on wine, I still cannot say I would buy Chianti Classico over a Brunello di Montalcino or Barbaresco. On the other hand, if you are smitten with Italian wines, these could be very reasonable prices to get wines which are, according to the law, higher in quality.

These wines were media samples.

Beau Carufel

2010 Attems Pinot Grigio Venezia Giulia

I think I have had this sample for something like a year. How sad! I should first apologize to the poor PR person who sent it to me. Also, the current vintage is probably 2011, or even 2012.

But what I have is the 2010 Attems Pinot Grigio so that's what we will look at. Pinot Gris in France (and Oregon) is Pinot Grigio in Italy. Some producers in Washington and California call it either one of those, but that's beside the point. Most of the time this grape is kind of boring. It's simple, showing citrus and grassy notes alongside stone fruit. Since so much Pinot Grigio is made in large quantities, finding one that's texturally and intellectually compelling can be difficult.

That is, until you plant it in the right place. I would argue that the Collio region of Italy is one of those places. Collio is tucked in far upper eastern corner of Italy, sitting within the province of Friuli Venezia Giulia . Sitting about 430 feet high on a marl and sandstone ancient seabed, the Pinot Grigio grown there can turn into something different, something almost exciting. Given a touch of oak and no malolactic treatment, the wines take on a sense of depth and complexity that satisfies to no end.




I like this wine. After sitting in the bottle for two years, it's developed a pretty mix of lemon pith, asian pear, and tropical fruit aromas. A faint whiff of sea air begins to show as the wine warms up. About 15 percent of the 2010 vintage sat in new French oak for two months. The rest saw four months in stainless steel tanks followed by one month in the bottle.

Tasting the 2010 Attems reminds me of the richness of an Asian pear and a Golden Delicious apple mixed with the tart acidity of green grapes and limes. The finish is gentle and lingering, ending with a hint of oak. About 12.5% abv keeps it classy.

An Oregon skin-contact gris is in the background.

Pair this with roast chicken, cold pasta salads, even pork-and-citrus dishes. Do not serve too cold either, or it will mask some of the more subtle flavors, like hay and minerally rocks.

Suggested retail of $19, but a real world price closer to $13 puts this closer to quaffing-wine territory. I couldn't find the total production for 2010 but I imagine it's a fair amount, well into the tens of thousands of cases. The United States importer is Folio Fine Wine Partners, so Attems should be easy to find in the marketplace.

This was a sample for review purposes.

Beau Carufel

"Derthona" Timorasso From Vigneti Massa

What is "timorasso"? Native to Piedmonte in northern Italy, this is a very rare grape. Most of the timorasso has been torn up and replanted with cortese, a less-troublesome variety. Walter Massa is one of the few people still making wines with it, and protecting the sites.

My friend Randy, owner of The Friendly Vine in Forest Grove, was going nuts for this the other night. He called it his new "house white". I was in his shop sampling him on some wines for my other day-job (Sales rep for Oregon Wine Sales) when he showed me the bottle and poured me a splash to try.

Fireworks went off in my organoleptic receptors. It was as if someone threw golden apples, pears, unripe kiwi fruit, mandarin oranges, lemon zest, and spearmint into a bowl then spritzed seawater on it! What the hell is this stuff?

To think, that was just the bouquet.

My eyes lit up, Randy saw that, nodded knowingly, and watched as I brought the glass to my lips. A sip, then a pause to ponder what was happening, and a swallow. Such a simple, by-now-instinctive act, and yet also full of meaning...

"Randy, what is this stuff?!" I exclaimed. Again that knowing smile, when a wine geek knows he's hooked another wine geek.

The taste was something incredible, like millions of tiny bubbles filled with apple, pear, mandarin, lemon pith, saltwater, and olive oil all exploded on my tongue at once. I couldn't stop smiling. This is the most interesting white wine I've had all year, and perhaps one of the greatest white wines I've ever had the pleasure of tasting. Nice to make your acquaintance, timorasso.

Thanks Randy.

*Note* The only place in Oregon to buy this stuff is at Randy's shop, so surf over to the Friendly Vine website and ask him about it.

Beau Carufel

Alto Adige Wines Come To Portland

I recently attended a tasting of wines from the Italian region of Alto Adige. This place, tucked away in the far north-east reaches of Italy's boot, has a long wine making tradition yet remains relatively unknown here in the United States. The goal of the tasting and seminar was to change that by exposing wine buyers, retailers, sommeliers, media, and other influential people to the diversity of styles found in Alto Adige.

Unlike the rest of Italy, if you visit Alto Adige you're just as likely to encounter a German-speaking resident as you are an Italian speaker. Historically this alpine corner was part of Austria-Hungary before being annexed by Italy after the First World War, and the culture is a fascinating mix of Germanic and Italian characteristics.

Alto Adige might be one of the most beautiful growing regions in the world, with vineyards terraced against picturesque mountains and quintessential European mountain villages. The location of the vineyards, on those steep hillsides, was repeatedly stressed throughout the seminar. On the valley floors you'll find apple orchards and other non-grape crops growing. Along Adige Valley, where the soil type is mostly poryphyric, vines bask in warm temperatures, cooled by breezes, for 300 days a year. That's a lot of sunny days, and apparently Portland sees 300 rainy days a year. Kind of puts things into perspective.

The combination of warm weather and sun, offset by altitude and wind, helps the grapes reach a state of ripeness that manifests as vibrant flavors tempered by pure acidic lift. In short, the wines are chock-full of refreshing flavors that make them perfectly suited for everyday drinking.

Within Alto Adige there are well known grape varieties like pinot blanc, pinot noir, gewurztraminer, and pinot grigio. There are also more unique grapes planted there, like sylvaner, kerner, and schiava. This tasting was my introduction to Italian pinot noir (called pinot nero), sylvaner, and schiava. I came away with a new appreciation of these non-traditional varieties.

Here are some selected highlights from the tasting:

2006 Cantina Terlano Vorberg Riserva Pinot Bianco: A perfumed nose of sweet stone fruit, pears, and lightly roasted nuts. Good structure, lots of pear and mandarin orange flavors that carry through to a soft, smooth finish. $39.99 srp. 13.5% abv. Imported by Banville & Jones Wine Merchants.

2010 Manincor Kalterersee Keil Schiava: Bright fruit notes, smoke, and savory aromas make up the bouquet. On the palate it's light, with dried black fruit, pepper, and a crisp finish. Practically begs for food and is a great introduction to the grape. $16.00 srp. 13.0% abv. Imported by Estelle Imports LLC.

2010 Kellerei Kaltern-Caldaro Lagrein: The bouquet is redolent of dark flavors; lots of smoke and savory meat, black currant, and intriguing minerality. Tannic on the palate, but a very textural wine. Shows more dark fruit and savory flavors along with a finish of earth and baking chocolate. $29.00 srp. 13.5% abv. Imported by Enotec Imports/Mitchell Wines.

2008 Cantina Andriano Lagrein: Another dark, brooding lagrein. More plummy and fruit-focused than the Kellerei example though, while retaining the woodsmoke element too. On the palate, a bit more polished tannin leads to black fruit and spices. Pleasing finish. $21.99 srp. Imported by Banville & Jones Wine Merchants.

2009 Cantina Bolzano Pinot Nero Riserva: Dusty earth and red berries rush up out of the glass. Subtle spices go hand in hand with the strawberry and cranberry flavors on the palate. Impressive balance and a finish that combines black tea and something akin to mint leaf. Outstanding wine, one that begs to be paired with salmon. $25.00 srp. Imported by Estelle Imports LLC.

2011 Erste + Neue Muller-Thurgau: Green apples and green figs lead the charge, along with citrus and limestone notes. The acidity is outstanding, creating a light, fresh white wine. More of the citrus shows through on the palate, along with a bracing finish of apple and wet rock. It's one of the most interesting, fun white wines I've tasted in 2012. $15.99 srp. Distributed by Corridor No. 5.

2010 Tenute Lentsch Fuchslahn Gewurztraminer: Freshly sliced ginger, flower petals, and a warm baking spice element work to create a delicious-smelling bouquet. On the palate the wine is dry and delicate, with sutble flavors of ginger, dried lemon, sweet pear, and a subtle spicy kick. Great balance and texture, a wine that would pair beautifully with grilled mahi-mahi or chicken stir-fry. $27.99 srp. Imported by Vinum Wine Importing.

I liked every wine I tasted at the Wines of Alto Adige tasting, which is a testament to the quality of the area. When Becky and I left, I wondered aloud why more people don't drink wines from Alto Adige, but was unable to come up with an answer.

The more I thought about this problem, the more I have become convinced that there are multiple reasons for the relative lack of exposure here in the United States. The first reason is simply a numbers game, with so many thousands of wines to choose from here, we're often overwhelmed. Another reason is the hesitation of most wine drinkers to try new things, especially with odd-sounding names, a phenomenon I ran into while working for Trader Joe's. Third, the lack of Alto Adige wines in many supermarkets makes it hard for the casual wine drinker to gain any exposure to these wines. Finally, the wines of Alto Adige need to be talked about, especially by influential wine personalities.

We all have to collectively demand these wines when we go out to our favorite restaurants and wine shops, then share our new discoveries with fellow wine drinkers. By doing that, some of the strangeness of a wine that says "Pinot Bianco di Alto Adige" will be lost, hopefully replaced with a big smile after a few sips.

Thanks to Vinum Importing and Cornerstone Communications for inviting me to this outstanding tasting.
For more information on the wines of Alto Adige visit the website and Facebook Page.

Beau Carufel

Italian Wine from Winepassionate.com

WinePassionate.com is a relative newcomer to the internet-wine-sales-scene. That hasn't stopped them from assembling a good selection of wine from Italy, Chile, California, and Argentina. Right now the focus appears to be Italy, with a range of wines from all across the "boot", and I think that's a good thing. Pricing is another nice part of the winepassionate.com site, with the wines ranging from about $8 all the way up to $46. They recently reached out to me with the offer to try a couple of their wines.

Aglianico is one of those obscure grapes that has a lot of history but not many wine drinkers in the U.S. drinking it. Sure, there are the ever-growing cadre of wine geeks who do seek it out, but the general public doesn't seek it out with any regularity. Perhaps that should change, just the way riesling went from relatively obscure to the darling of sommeliers (hint: it makes their jobs easier) all over this country.

When the chance to sample an aglianico came up, I was eager to get my hands on it. This one, a 2010 by Pandiani, is from the island of Sicily. It saw no oak, instead spending six months in steel tanks before being released. Aromas of dusty soil, currants, and plums waft up from the glass. The palate is nice, with well-integrated tannin, spices, ripe fruit, and enough acidity to keep the "flab" factor from coming into play. I paired it with some pulled pork sandwiches and that worked out beautifully. This aglianico is on special for only $12 right now, if you're interested click here to buy. (I make no money from any sales made, just FYI)

As Jay-Z says, "on to the next one..." and so it goes. I was also sent a $46 bottle of wine from La Sala. It's a Super Tuscan, which tells us that this wine contains grapes other than sangiovese, and is from Tuscany. In the case of the 2007 La Sala Campo All'Albero, 85% cabernet sauvignon and 15% sangiovese. After 12 months in small French oak barrels, the Campo All'Albero underwent an additional six months aging in bottle before being released.

"So what?", you might say. And rightfully so. Often that kind of aging information is meaningless without some context. Consider this then: we know cabernet sauvignon, when young, is a brute and needs oak to mellow out it's tannin and acid levels. Sangiovese can be the same way, therefore it's wise to age Super Tuscan style wines in oak barrels for some time before you release them.

We can therefore conclude that this wine, while from tannic grapes, will have the benefit of almost five years of age and some of that time in oak. Accordingly, I found the La Sala to have aromas of roasted nuts, oak, pepper, red currant, and cherry. On the palate it's still youthful, with tannin that firmly keeps the ripe fruit flavors in place. Nicely balanced and with a pleasantly drying finish, I kept wanting veal or other red meat.

$46 isn't cheap, and as you can see, this wine didn't blow me away, but it's damn good stuff and compares favorably to Super Tuscans that cost twice as much. If you're interested, click here to purchase. (Again, I make nothing from any sales)

In time, I hope the WinePassionate.com team expands their selection, with the caveat that it continues to focus on smaller brands not always available here. They can fill a great niche, given a bigger list from. Oh and they do a neat thing where every four bottles equals free shipping. It's a great way to spend under $50 and get four bottles of delicious wine, like the 2010 Pandiani Aglianico.

These two wines were media samples from the website.

Beau Carufel

Panini and Barbera, and Life.

This afternoon Becky went out and bought a panini grill, fulfilling a long-held intent of ours. With that purchase, tonight became "panini night" at the abode. Becky enthusiastically manned the grill, such as it was, and created various combinations of panini that included ham/cheddar/mustard, onion/turkey/swiss/spinach-dip, and ham/spinach/swiss/spinach-dip. Aside from making me fat, Becky was experimenting to find flavor combinations we'd like.

As is usually the case, I was left wondering what wine to open this evening. My requirement was simple: whatever I opened had to be Italian. Armed with this strident selection criteria, I engaged my friend Meg Maker, via Twitter, to see what she'd recommend. If you haven't read Meg's wine blog, check it out because I guarantee you will learn something while enjoying the story she tells.

Meg immediately suggested a barbera, bringing joy to my heart and palate because Becky and I had just purchased some barbera at an Italian wine tasting several weeks ago. A local wine store, E&R Wine Shop, was responsible for my new-found (or: re-kindled) enthusiasm towards wines from "The Boot".

This 2008 Iuli Barbera del Monferrato proved to be a wonderful match for grilled sandwiches. The bouquet is bright with red fruit and pepper, tobacco, and a whiff of Old World funk. It smells authentic, it smells of a real wine, made without high tech gizmos and gadgets but made with care, attention to detail, and passion. I can respect that. The beautiful garnet color lends itself to a wine that tastes like red fruit and soil with tart acidity keeping the troops in line. Light body, a clean finish, and a singularly beautiful simplicity leave me wishing I had a better vocabulary so as to do this wine justice.

Experiences like tonight's serve to remind me (us?) that you don't need to spend a lot of money for a wine to be special or memorable. Sometimes a simple, cheap, authentic barbera paired with your girlfriend's first attempts at panini are all you need to remember just how good you have it.

Beau Carufel

Divino Tuscany, May 17-20

(img credit: Alessandro Moggi)

How does a four day festival in Tuscany sound? If you're like me, it sounds pretty damn good. This just came down the PR wire and I'm curious if any of my readers are going or would go. What appeals to me is the wine and food tastings, along with the first night's Cuban cigar and Grappa pairing. How could that not be fun? Now the price, a really hefty €1,900, or $2,486 at current exchange rates for each ticket. That doesn't include airfare either, and as far as I can see, you're on your own for where to stay. If you're considering this type of event, perhaps a budget of $5,000 to $7,500 is necessary. Of course, if the organizers want this humble blogger to cover the event and are going to pay his way, who am I to say no?

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Event: Divino Tuscany 2012
Date/Time: May 17- 20, 2012
Location: Florence, Tuscany. (Italy..the same region Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino come from, among others)
Description: One-of-a-kind, 4-day celebration of the best Tuscan wines, food and culture. Divino Tuscany will offer a distinctive program that highlights premium wines: wine tastings with Tuscany’s top winemakers, seminars and grand tastings curated by James Suckling, former Senior Editor and European Bureau Chief of Wine Spectator and one of the world's most influential wine critics; special luncheons and dinners prepared by Michelin-starred chefs and entertainment organized by IMG Artists, one of the leading producers of cultural and lifestyle festivals. Participating winemakers include Marchesi Antinori, Frescobaldi, Mazzei, Ricasoli, Il Borro, Petrolo and Castello Banfi, and more.
Highlights:
· Festive welcome dinner to open the second edition of Divino Tuscany with the Italian premiere screening of James Suckling’s and James Orr’s film Heart and Soul of Cuba, recently shown to rave reviews at the Sonoma Film Festival, live music from Havana’s hottest pianist, Ernán López Nussa performing with his trio, and Grappa tasting with Cuban cigars
·Gala dinner at the opulent Palazzo Corsini on the banks of the Arno.
·Grand Tastings at the Grand Hotel Villa Cora poured by the winemakers and proprietors themselves.
·Saturday night dinners in the private Palazzi of the most well known Tuscan wine families.
·Join James Suckling as he escorts you through private tastings with winemakers he has personally invited for this intimate experience.
·Divino Tuscany will close with a relaxed country lunch at the private villa Il Palagio, courtesy of owners Sting and Trudie Styler.
Tickets: The Full Pass Package for Divino Tuscany is €1900 per person, including applicable VAT/IVA. Readers may purchase event tickets online.
General Inquiries:
IMG Artists UK / Divino Tuscany
Phone: +44 (0)20 7957 5800; Fax: +44 (0)20 7957 5801
Email: info@divinotuscany.com
Website: www.divinotuscany.com
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(img credit Alessandro Moggi)

So what do you think? Would you go if you had the money?

Beau Carufel

L'Oca Ciuca Brunello di Montalcino, Drunken Goose Wine

One of my resolutions for 2012 was to get out and taste more Italian wines, so getting this sample from the folks at winechateau.com was a great way to kick things off. Every few months, they send me a bottle of something fun and interesting to taste and blog about, usually imported, and always at a really good price. This time I was given the option of this 2006 L'Oca Ciuca Brunello di Montalcino or a 2006 Tenuta Rocca Barolo, both wines which received high scores from Wine Spectator.

I chose the Brunello because it would be more approachable right now, compared to the Barolo which will probably be a tannic beast for the forseeable future. Don't go grabbing your torches and pitchforks yet though, I am well aware that Brunello di Montalcino wines also need a lot of age, often over ten years before they start truly showing the magnificent angles and nuances that sangiovese can produce.

What is Brunello di Montalcino then? Brunello is the regional (in Montalcino) name for the sangiovese grosso species of grape. In the regional dialect, Brunello means "little dark one", a reference to the size and color of the grapes. A wine bearing the DOCG stamp from the region can only contain sangiovese and must follow strict barrel and bottle aging requirements. Montalcino is a warm, dry region in Tuscany, a region also home to Chianti. Vineyards in Montalcino are planted in varied soils including limestone, clay, volcanic soil, schist,  and a crumbly marl known as galestro. Vineyard elevation is between 500 and 1,500 feet.

Now let's talk about this Brunello, a 2006 called L'Oca Ciuca, or "Drunken Goose".

After being passed through a vinturi into my glass for about two hours, I figure it was time to give the L'Oca Ciuca a proper evaluation. The 2006 vintage has been getting some great press lately, with the print media critics calling it a superb, balanced year.

The L'Oca Ciuca Brunello has a beautifully aromatic nose full of dark cherries, spice, saddle leather, and a whiff of sweet plum. The secondary flavors manifest as a dusty, brown soil component as well as a hint of thyme. The aromatic complexity of good Brunello never fails to put a smile on my face. I'd even be so bold as to state this is a wine, when sniffed, that you will instinctively know is great. Not good, fine, decent, okay, but a great bottle of wine.

The palate presence gives away this wine's age, but it has already developed a silky, beautiful texture. There's the ever-present sangiovese acidic snap, enveloping gorgeous black cherry and plum flavors. As the wine continues to unfold, an earthy note reaches through the tannic mid-palate, beckoning you towards a finish of dried herb, oak, tar, and more silky smooth tannin. There's a soulful depth to this wine, like Etta James singing "At Last", where you cannot help but be touched by the magic at play. Like the song's rise and fall, the flavors rise and fall in intensity, leaving you with the sense that you've just experienced something special.

I highly recommend buying a few bottles of the 2006 L'Oca Ciuca, and Winechateau.com is selling it for $29.97, versus the regular price of $65. You can visit their site and purchase some to drink, but I recommend a few more years of rest for this Brunello. After 2015, you'll be rewarded with even more flavor integration and silky texture.

This wine was a sample for review purposes from WineChateau.com

Beau Carufel

A Mouthful of an Italian Wine..That You Should Buy!

I once again bring you a review of a wine from the guys at WineChateau.com, they send me a bottle every few months to share with you, this time it's the 2008 Feudo di Santa Croce Malnera Negro Amaro Salento. Wow that is in fact a mouthful but we can break down that bevy of words to make it more understandable. The first few words "Feudo di Santa Croce" indicate the winery, "Malnera" is this wine, the word "Negro Amaro" refers to (one of the) the grapes in this wine, and "Salento" is the region in southern Italy where Feudo di Santa Croce is located.

The Feudo di Santa Croce Malnera Negro Amaro Salento (sticking with that long name for just a few more sentences, bear with me) is a blend comprising 80% Negro Amaro and 20% Malvasia Nera, two obscure (to us in the USA) varietals that go back thousands of years. Indeed, Italian wine-making goes back more than two thousand years and within that peninsula are over one thousand different varietals. If you ever want to become a memeber of the Wine Century Club and taste over 100 different grapes, Italy is a great place to start.

Next, a little bit about WineChateau.com, an online retailer located in New Jersey. If you buy wine online, you gotta check out their site and browse the listings, not only is the pricing good, but the selection of cool stuff is wonderful as well. For a wine geek, it's a place to spend a nice chunk of your afternoon checking out small, boutique producers. My point of contact is Al, a nice guy with a passion for wine, contact him via the site with any questions you might have.

I like this label. It's elegant and ever-so Italian.

Some of the nitty-gritty: 14.0% alchol, $14.97 per bottle on WineChateau.com, cork closure.

The 2008 Malnera pours a beautiful dark semi-opaque purple, reminding me a little bit of some of the petite sirahs I've tasted this year. Whenever I see color this deep and dark, I immediately start to get the idea that the wine will be young and full of flavor. Part of wine training though is remembering to evaluate the color without making gross assumptions about taste and texture.

Aromatically the Feudo di Santa Croce Malnera Negro Amaro Salento is all about dust, cherry, balsamic and black olive. Magnificent! There's some oak meandering through the bouquet, along with a touch of brettanomyces (the good kind). When I smell the 2008 Malnera, it's got an "Old World" thing going, distinctly different than California or Australia, like a sense of history about it. These lands were being farmed for grapes before there was ever even an Italy, I think that shows through.

Finally after an hour of open time, I got to taste the 2008 Feudo di Santa Croce, and I was grinning from ear to ear afterwards. It starts wonderfully smooth, building some spice that turns into ripe black fruit like plums and black cherry. A good dose of acidity cleans up the flavor profile, creating this linear progression of tastes over my palate while acting as a foil to the bit of funk and earth I was also picking up. Medium weight over the entire profile and balanced very nicely. I wrote in my notes that this wine is "incredibly food-friendly, Italy manages to nail it once again, loving the dry earth through the mid-palate".  A supple finish contiues the theme of an accessible, fun Italian red wine.

2008 was good to Feudo di Santa Croce and their Malnera, this stuff, at $15 is a no-brainer and a B (STRONG BUY) from me. If you're looking for a wine that is at once somewhat obscure yet incredibly fun to drink and versatile to pair with food, this is it. What a gem! Buy six bottles at WineChateau.com, buy twelve, share it with all your friends from wine-geek to causal-sipper and watch their faces light up!

This was a media sample for review purposes.


Beau Carufel

Whole Foods Market's Top Ten Summer Wines

(img src: http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com)

Whole Foods Market is aiming to help us all with summer wine selections by highlighting wines with great quality and price throughout this summer. Called the "Top Ten Wines", there's actually a list of 12 wines split between six red and five white, with one sparkler in there for good measure. In June Whole Foods held a live, virtual tasting with some bloggers from around the country, unfortunately I wasn't able to participate that night but the awesome people at Whole Foods were kind enough to get me some samples anyways, so that I could check each wine out and feature them in this blog.

One of the things Whole Foods has done right is to feature wine from all over the world, the list contains bottles from France, Argentina, California, Greece, Italy, New Zealand, and Spain. Price wise, these run from between $6 and $20, offering a variety to choose from at prices that will play nice with your budget.

The Whole Foods wine people were kind enough to set me up with six selections off of their Summer Selections to taste through and comment on. Over the course of the past few weeks I've been opening and tasting each wine, jotting down impressions as I pair them with food or simply enjoy a glass on a warm (or cool) evening.

2010 Elios Mediterranean White
Ready for this? A white blend: 50% moschofilero, 30% chardonnay, 10% roditis, 10% savatiano. A Greek kitchen sink wine. Color-wise, not much there. It's almost like looking into a glass of Fresca, without the carbonation. I loved the nose of ripe melons, salt air, summer flowers and hints of lemon zest. While not overly complex, the Elios smelled delicious and appropriate for the 82 degree day on which I opened the bottle. The mouthfeel was light, helped by the acidity and citrus flavors of grapefruit and lime. Though the chardonnay lent weight through the mid-palate, it did muddle some of the stone fruit and grassy flavors, leaving me a trifle disappointed. For a food-friendly, inexpensive summer white wine though, this is damn good stuff. B-. BUY recommendation.

2010 Santa Julia Innovac!on Torrontes/Pinot Grigio Argentina
Palest of straw hues and 13% alcohol, a wine that combines two of my favorite white varietals from a region exploding onto the scene in the last decade. The Innovac!on smelled like a summer bouquet of orange blossom and Bartlett pear. Peach nectar mixed with a mango smoothie, perhaps?. On my palate, a very light wine, clean and nicely acidic, yet not at all what the bouquet promised. I struggled a little bit to find lemon peel and a bit of tropical fruit but that is about all there is to this wine. Not too interesting, nothing wrong with it though. C+. Pass.

2010 Presto Moscato Dolce
I like how Moscato is really exploding right now, one of the highest-growing categories of wine in the United States. It's the perfect gateway wine, getting people into wine and allowing them to have a solid base to jump into other grapes and styles. The Presto is a "dolce", meaning it's definitely got some sweetness to it. I opened this on a hot evening after chilling it for a few hours in the fridge and it hit the spot. At once sweet yet refreshing, it's no Cava or Champagne but at around $10 it isn't designed to be. The bubbles in the Presto Moscato seemed smaller and softer than in either of the aforementioned sparklers.  Soft notes of apple and sea breeze, a hint of sweet peach, and smiles all around. Very nice and a great change of pace. B. Buy recommendation.

2009 Perrin Nature Cotes du Rhone France
Perrin is a big, big producer in France's Rhone valley, hundreds of thousands of cases big. This is their "Nature" wine, made from organically grown grapes predominantly from the Southern Rhone river valley. It's another $10 value from a critically acclaimed vintage. The Perrin pours a dark purple with a bit of violet towards the edges, it looks very much alive and full of personality. I liked the whiffs of leather and crushed red fruit along with a good hit of bittersweet chocolate. I enjoyed the balanced ripeness, crushed white pepper, earth, and firm tannin. The word of the day for the 2009 Perrin Nature: "rustic".  Some rough edges yet a deliciously different $10 bottle of wine. B, BUY recommendation.

2009 Vitiano Cabernet Sauvignon/Sangiovese Italy
This is a Leonardo Locascio selection, Mr. Locascio being a guy who brings in a lot of good quality Italian wine. Clocking in at 13% abv, it's what I would term a "Super Tuscan" red wine. The color is dark, vibrant red that's nearly opaque, perhaps a tribute to the cabernet sauvignon in this blend. I smelled ripe cherries, almost overripe to the point of being like cough syrup. Cedar and spice, red licorice and a bit of brettanomyces to round out this rustic red. Very smooth initially with firm tannins carrying heavy red fruit through the entire taste. Barest hint of a snappy red currant too, but very easy drinking wine if somewhat simplistic. This is rustic Italian red wine, best enjoyed with grilled eggplant or a meat lovers pizza. Thin crust please. B-. Pass recommendation.

2009 Altovinum Evodia Old Vine Garnacha Spain
From 100 year old grenache vines comes a ripe, rich, big, fruit bomb of a wine. That is just what is needed on a summer day with your buddies, standing around a hot grill of awesomely charred meat. Evodia does age the wine in oak for a bit, tempering some of the acidity and tannin from the grenache, and enhancing the mouthfeel. I was assaulted (in a good way) by ripe plum, blackberry, and red currants, hints of cooking spice, a touch of green herbs and some warm oak. Perhaps my favorite of the Whole Foods Top Ten Wines lineup, the 2009 Altovinum Evodia is begging to be paired with a chunk of mancego cheese, or better yet, a thick burger with bacon and a chunk of mancego cheese! See where I'm going with this?! B, STRONG BUY recommendation.

During my exhaustive research, I tasted through each wine at least twice, over a minimum of two days, this helped me gain impressions that might not have been there on the first day. The exception to this was the NV Moscato, which had lost all it's bubbles after the first night and was rendered into sweet, gross, fermented grape juice rather quickly. As such, the notes on that wine are from the first day only.

For the red wines, I opened each one about two hours before I tasted them, then poured each red wine through a Vinturi. When I tasted the white wines, I removed them from the refrigerator about one hour before tasting, to allow each bottle a chance to warm up a few degrees and therefore allow the taster (me) a better idea of the wine's acid and sugar levels.

Before this blog gets longer, I will post my final thoughts and impressions. To be honest, I'd never considered Whole Foods Market as a place to buy wine before, but with this tasting, my opinion is beginning to change. The wines I tried were all interesting in their own right, while there were a couple of clunkers, none were actually bad wines. At Whole Foods, the wine buyers are doing a good job finding unique selections at varying price points, I admire them for that. As we continue through the summer months, I urge you to go check out your local Whole Foods Market and take a peek at their Top Ten Wines selections.. Chances are, you'll walk out of there with a few bottles of yummy wines.

Follow Whole Foods on Twitter, and send them a tweet asking for the account of your local store!

These wines were media samples for review purposes.

Beau Carufel

Sicilian White Wine, A Fun Discovery!

Have you ever had the grape inzolia? I have not, to the best of my knowledge. The varietal is grown in Sicily, among other places, and creates a wonderfully light, aromatic white wine. Thanks to the awesomeness of Twitter and my friend Melissa, I found out that the grape is blended with other native varietals including: Greciano, Catarratto, and Grillo. Also it's used in making of Marsala, which old people drink and everyone else uses to cook chicken Marsala with.

 I was sent a sample to taste recently, from d'Alessandro winery via Colangelo Public Relations. The d'Alessandro winery is relatively new, dating back to 2006 Giacomo d'Alessandro left the family tourism business to make wine. It's located in the southwest of Sicily close to the city of Agrigento. According to the press materials I received, d'Alessandro wines are available in New York City, California, Massachusetts, and Florida, along with some other selected markets across the country. The importer is Vinifera, who import some of the very best Italian wines available into this country. I have sold a lot of their wines during my near-decade on the retail side of the industry.

Enough with the chit-chat, time to look at what's in my glass!

Pale with a very small amount of green tint, reminds me of a pinot grigio from the Venezie region, way up at the top of the boot. Oh stepping slightly off topic for a second, why the hell is there so much cheap, insipid pinot grigio being lapped up by consumers today? That's one thing that bugs the hell out of me because the grape is capable of making some truly delicious wines, yet I see the $5 shit selling like hotcakes. At that point, why bother? Just add alcohol to water and you're set, because the taste will be pretty much the same.

Back to the wine in front of me...

Beautifully scented nose that reminds me of pineapple, lime juice and fresh Granny Smith apples. I'm really enjoying the aromatics and it's easy to close my eyes and imagine a cafe in Sicily right on the seashore, sipping this wine under a springtime sun while I ponder a citrus-marinated grilled white fish resting on a bed of polenta. Seriously, it's such an easy thing to picture and that mental image just feels right. Or I could be waxing poetic about a dream vacation I really want to take. Which do you think?

Since I don't have much (if any) experience with white wines from Sicily or the grape inzolia, placing the d'Alessandro into the proper context is difficult. I know we wine bloggers aren't supposed to admit things like that but I did anyways. I'm trying to evaluate this wine in the context of a light, food-friendly, inexpensive white wine.

In that regard, it succeeds...In spades. If acidity in a white wine can be elegant, the d'Alessandro embodies that theory. The wine has life, a zippy seam of acidity that mixes around with toasted almonds and lime juice. Around the edges of those two primary flavors comes some weight, a glycerin component not entirely different than what I've discovered in some wines from Soave. Vibrant, ripe apples on the finish make up the sweet fruit component while that seam of acid gently fades away, giving a very pleasing linear feel. The 2009 d'Alessandro Inzolia kicks ass. Probably the main reason this inzolia remains so fresh is because it sees no malo-lactic treatment or oak barrel aging, rather just four months in stainless steel tanks and two months in bottle before it is released.

I used wine-searcher.com to see if I could find anyone in the United States selling the 2009 d'Alessandro Inzolia, but that didn't work out. From what I could glean, the wine sells for about $15-20 but might be a touch less depending on your local taxes. Price aside, this is a B+ and a SOLID BUY recommendation. Pick up a bottle and pair it with fresh fish, sushi (YUM!!), light pasta dishes (basil pesto?!) and even vegetarian pizza. Just goes to show that the Italians truly do know how to make wines that are meant to be enjoyed with food.


This wine was received as a sample for review purposes from Colangelo Public Relations for d'Alessandro Winery.

Spring Soave Sipping Soliloquy

Yea, how about that title! It's one that certainly feels apt, from time to time.

But enough about me. This past February I was contacted about some samples of Soave and a new campaign designed to increase awareness of the wine here in the United States. For those of you who don't know Soave, fear not, because it's easily explained and easy to remember. Soave, like Chianti or Barolo, refers to a place versus a grape type. High up in the northeast of Italy, close to the cities of Verona and Venice, lies the province of Soave.

For a long time, if you bought a Soave in a supermarket or even a wine shop, you'd get a fairly neutral, slightly acidic white wine. I have tasted some examples over my career yet none have ever stood out and perhaps more importantly, the wines of Soave are not at the top of my wine consciousness. Given that my experience and feelings towards Soave wines are typical of most wine drinkers, it's no surprise the Soave Consortium seeks to educate and arouse interest in the American market.

As we've established, there is no grape called Soave, rather, the grape is garganega. Should you happen to be intent on joining the Wine Century Club, tasting a Soave will definitely get you one varietal closer to the magic number. Not all Soave must be 100% garganega though, and winemakers are increasingly using chardonnay and trebbiano in their wines to add body, texture and additional flavors.

Now that I have covered the basics, and believe me the stuff I just wrote was a very topical view on Soave, let's get to tasting the two wines the Soave Consortium were kind enough to send my way. One last quick note, I tasted both wines at about 55 degrees, warmer than your refrigerator. When you have wines like Soave, I'd recommend chilling them more than this when just enjoying them instead of evaluating them. The near-room-temperature tasting allows me to get a truer sense of acidity and flavor composition than if the wines were straight from my fridge.

2009 Re Midas Soave

100% garganega and coming in at 12% alcohol, the Re Midas Soave pours as a pale yellow color with nice clarity. I was reminded of some New Zealand sauvignon blancs, color-wise. With that observation complete, I gave the wine a bit of a swirl and put my nose to the glass to see what Re Midas was saying. Immediately, sweet flowers and lemongrass notes along with a nice vegetal component told me a lot about the wine. The Re Midas is one of those food-friendly white wines that will pair well with light pasta salads, seafood and citrus-themed chicken dishes. The mouthfeel was soft and lush on the front palate, smoothly transitioning through lemon zest, fuji apples, and toasted almond. Just when I thought the wine was going to stop too quickly, the acidity eased the finish into a gradual, drawn out embrace with my palate. I was impressed considering the Re Midas is available for about $10 and even less in some places. Click here to check out wine-searcher.com  to see if it's available in your area. Gary Vaynerchuck said this about the Re Midas. Me, I give it a B and a STRONG BUY recommendation. This is a superb way to explore white varietals a bit more as well as pick up a great springtime sipper.

2009 Fattori Motto Piane Soave

This is the next bottle of Soave that I tasted, a more expensive, by a few dollars, example. Pouring it into my glass revealed a much more intense straw color, reminiscent of some Oregon chardonnays I've tasted. The 2009 Fattori Motto Piane also brings the heat, clocking in at 14% alcohol. This was disappointing because as frequent readers know, I am firmly in favor of lower alcohol levels in wine. Heck, you rarely see even California chardonnays come in at 14% abv! Sweet flavors dominated the nose, I was reminded of pineapple and peach juice mixed together, with a bit of citrus from a ruby grapefruit. In fact, the Motto Piave felt heavier even as I smelled it. There were hints of herbs dancing around the edges too, the kind you would expect to find in an Italian kitchen. When I tasted the Fattori, the balance between the typical oily character of Soave and this example's fine acidity was great. Each half of the flavor spectrum contributed, with the oily part giving lots of ripe summer fruit and unfortunately some alcohol burn too. The acidity did keep the mouthfeel fresh and lively, tempering the flavors and allowing for a gradually tapering finish like in the Re Midas. There was a neat yeasty flavor along with the toasted almond butter right at the end, something not often found in domestic wines. My only knock is the alcohol, there was a noticeable burn at the back of my throat. I gave this a B- and still do recommend it, just be sure to pair it with food. I'd recommend a marinated, seared piece of tuna or swordfish.

So, to wrap up my first foray into Soave, I was sent two good wines at great prices. If this is an indicator of the quality coming out of Soave these days, I think we as consumers would be wise to start asking out local wine merchants for them. Both wines ended up pairing very well with the fish tacos, but the Re Midas had a bit more acidity, cutting through the richness of the fish and sauce. With more acidic dishes I can see the Motto Piane pairing beautifully. I was told both wines are available in the United States, which is a good start. Ideally of course, we'd see nationwide distribution, but wine-searcher.com is a good place to start. Also, check out the Soave Consortium's facebook page and their blog. Both are great ways to get in touch and see if there are any upcoming events in your area, as well as where to buy these wines.

These wines were sent as media samples by the Soave Consortium


Beau Carufel

Birthday, Barolo, Beautiful! 2004 Colle Dei Venti

Last year I reviewed a Chianti Classico from WineChateau.com and this year they were kind enough to send another wine my way. The 2004 Colle Dei Venti Barolo, from the Piedmont region of Italy. Tucked way up at the top of the "boot" and bordered on three sides by the Alps, a few grapes grow quite well in the hilly region.

Perhaps the most famous is nebbiolo, producing the wines of Barolo. The Barolo wines of Piedmont are considered to be some of Italy's best and I count them among my favorites as well. Traditionally they are very intense, tannic reds that need at least ten years before they're suitable to drink. Some stuffy old English critic once declared that a Barolo must be at least 30 years old before it's ready to be consumed. Having tried a few 30+ year old Barolo wines once, I can say that with that much age, they take on the complexity of a great Bordeaux.

(img copyright Beau Carufel 2011)

However! There is a new movement afoot, one to produce Barolos that do not require a prohibitively long time before being ready to drink. Given the following evidence, I suspect that is what the 2004 Colle Dei Venti is aiming for. First the color is not what I was expecting. Next, upon a few whiffs, the aromatics didn't seem to be typical of the Barolos I had enjoyed previously. Finally, I tasted some somewhat subtle differences between what I expected of this Barolo and what was present. None of those factors should be construed as good or bad, just my observations regarding this particular wine.

Professionals describe Barolos as lightly colored, almost ruby-like when young. When looking at the Colle Dei Venti, I must disagree. It's far closer to a cabernet from California or even a Cotes du Rhone. Dark and opaque, not at all ruby-like. Truth be told, I was hoping for a wine with a lighter color because lately all the wines I have seem to be somewhat monochromatic.

Despite a lackluster or less-than-awe-inspiring color, the Colle Dei Venti does display complex aromas of spice, sour cherry, tar and rose petal. Some scents are stronger than others but what they combine to create is a wonderful bouquet. Consider me impressed.

Today I decided to take a somewhat different approach to tasting and opened the Barolo about three hours before I tasted it, then poured it through a vinturi to maximize the aeration. The wine makes an impressive entrance, bursting with spices and tannic structure. It's got pepper and a savory, almost jerky-like note too. But oh those tannins, so strong and dominant. I can easily picture this wine being far less imposing in another five years, maybe even ten. At 14% alcohol, there's a bit of heat right on the finish that perhaps will disappear with age, all the more reason to drink aged Barolo I suppose.

All of the above taken into account left me with the singular thought that I really enjoyed the 2004 Colle Dei Venti Barolo. It's complex, big, brawny, and has potential. Sure it's rough right now but with some mushroom/truffle ravioli with shaved Parmesan on top, I bet this would be a knockout. The classic pairing of tannin and protein (think red wine and steak) would also be beautiful and an exercise in the yin and yang of food and wine. B+ from me, a BUY recommendation if you see it anywhere. WineChateau.com looks to be sold out (for now?) but if this is any indication of the Barolos they procure, you need to check their site out.

This was received as a sample for review purposes.


Beau Carufel

2007 Donna Laura Bramosia Chianti Classico

Thank God that Chianti no longer conjures up visions of straw-wrapped bottles and cheap Italian food. The region has undergone something of a renaissance over the past 15 years or so. I predict that within a few years, wines from the Chianti DOCG will become even more popular, especially amongst wine hipsters. All it takes is one or two clever advertising and marketing campaigns! All cynicism aside, it's great to see such an historic wine region gaining in popularity. Click here for a good explanation of Chianti and it's sub-regions.

I was sent this bottle of 2007 Donna Laura Bramosia as a sample, from http://www.winechateau.com. I browsed their site for a few minutes and urge you to do so as well, there are some excellent deals if you take the time to look around.

Now, the wine! Great red brick color in the glass, I could see right through it. Definitely a welcome change from some of the darker reds I've been tasting lately. The Bramosia's nose was overflowing with earth, herbs and cocoa powder. A twinge of green, vegetal character showed up briefly, so did ripe but sour cherries. I think the term "rustic" is an apt descriptor, and I like what's going on so far.

After an hour of open time, I thought the flavors were very nicely integrated. Those sour cherries came out in force, great acidity, dusty earth and some soft, round tannins. Donna Laura's wine finished with a spicy taper, most agreeable. I think this is a superb wine to pair with pizza (as I dial up Leucadia Pizza for delivery) but also with most any hearty Italian fare. I'd be interested to pair some other dishes with this too, perhaps even something like cedar-plank salmon.

I haven't reviewed many Italian wines of late, hopefully that's going to change though. The 2007 Donna Laura Bramosia was wonderfully balanced and is a reminder that the Italians have been making wine for a long time and are very good at it. I found this Chianti Classico online for about $15, winechateau.com had it for $13.97, discounted from $29.99. At about $14, it's a great deal and one I'd be more than happy to purchase. Solid B and a BUY recommendation. You can buy this wine directly from WineChateau.com by clicking here. That link takes you directly to their site where you can even get free shipping!

This wine was received as a sample from http://www.winechateau.com for review purposes.


Beau Carufel